Simone Moro

Simone Moro (born 27 October 1967) is an Italian alpinist.

He is the only mountaineer to have made the first winter ascent of four of the eight-thousanders:Shishapangma in 2005,Makalu in 2009,Gasherbrum II in 2011, and Nanga Parbat in 2016.

Moro is also an experienced helicopter pilot. In 2013, Moro and two other rescue experts carried out the world's highest long-line rescue operation on a helicopter, on Lhotse, at 7800m. On 12 November 2015, he made the flight altitude world record for a turbine helicopter (6705m).

Born in Bergamo (Italy) to middle-class parents, he grew up in the borough of Valtesse and was strongly supported by his father in his passion for the mountains. His father was a climber and biker at a high level and also created a lively and international environment around him. He started climbing the Presolana and other massifs of the Alpi Bergamasche at 13, however he continued his studies until graduating cum laude at the university.

Moro began his climbing activity in the Grigne near his home city, and in the Dolomites. His father was his first mentor, followed by Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi. In this period he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity he has never given up. In 1992 he participated in his first Himalayan expedition to Mount Everest. One year later Moro climbed Aconcagua, achieving the first winter ascent of that peak. During his career he has attempted a number of mountains including Cerro Mirador and Makalu in 1993; Shisha Pangma and Lhotse in 1994, Kangchenjunga in 1995. In 1996 Moro climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy (3341 m in Patagonia) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. In the same year he climbed Shisha Pangma South (8008 m) without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from 7100 meters. In 1997 he summited Lhotse. In Winter 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna. During this attempt his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev died in an avalanche. He tried Everest again in 1998; summited four peaks Pik Lenin (7134 m), Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), Ismoil Somoni Peak (7495 m, formerly known as Pik Kommunizma), Pik Khan Tengri (7010 m) with young Kazakhstan guide Denis Urubko; then summited Everest with him in 2000 and Marble Wall in winter 2001.

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