Ortler

Ortler
The Ortler seen from the North ridge showing the normal route of ascent
Highest point
Elevation	3,905 m (12,812 ft)
Prominence	1,953 m (6,407 ft)
Isolation	49 kilometres (30 mi)
Parent peak	Piz Bernina
Listing	Ultra
Coordinates	46°30′32″N 10°32′42″E / 46.50889°N 10.54500°E / 46.50889; 10.54500Coordinates: 46°30′32″N 10°32′42″E / 46.50889°N 10.54500°E / 46.50889; 10.54500
Geography
Ortler Location in the Alps
Location	South Tyrol, Italy
Parent range	Ortler Alps
Climbing
First ascent	27 September 1804
Easiest route	North ridge from the Payer house

Ortler (German pronunciation: [ˈɔrtlɐ]; Italian: Ortles [ˈɔrtles]) is, at 3,905 m (12,812 ft) above sea level, the highest mountain in the Eastern Alps outside the Bernina Range. It is the main peak of the Ortler Range. It is the highest point of the Southern Limestone Alps, of the Italian province of South Tyrol, of Tyrol overall, and, until 1919, of the Austrian-Hungarian empire. In German the mountain is commonly referred to as "König Ortler" (King Ortler), like in the unofficial hymn of South Tyrol, the Bozner Bergsteigerlied.

The massive mountain is capped by a glacier on the northwest flank and has a long north ridge that ends at the village of Gomagoi and separates the valleys of Trafoi and Sulden. The South ridge leads to the Hochjoch (3527 m) on the main ridge of the Ortler Alps that forms the border of the Province of Sondrio and South Tyrol. Going west on this main ridge are the Thurwieserspitze (3652) and Trafoier Wall (3565 m), while to the Southeast are the Monte Zebrù (3740 m) and the majestic Königspitze (3859 m). From nearby mountains in the northeast the impressive lineup of Königspitze, Zebru and Ortler is known as “das Dreigestirn” (the three heavenly bodies).

The Ortler was first climbed by Josef Pichler () ("Pseirer-Josele"), a chamois hunter from St. Leonhard in Passeier, and his companions Johann Leitner and Johann Klausner from Zell am Ziller on 27 September 1804. The ascent had been a request of Archduke Johann of Austria, who felt strongly that after the first ascent of the Großglockner (3,798 m) in 1800, the highest mountain in his brother's empire ought to be climbed. The archduke ordered Johannes Nepomuk Gebhard, a "mountain official" and topographer from Salzburg, to climb the mountain with locals. The first five attempts failed and Gebhard was ready to give up, when Pichler responded to the prize money offered for reaching the peak. Pichler and his friends took a difficult, and because of avalanche danger until recently disused, route over the northwest face from Trafoi. (The route was re-opened in 2004.)