Itamae

An itamae (板前, a cook, chef^?) is a cook in a Japanese kitchen, or a chef in larger restaurants (esp. of high-end Japanese cuisine). The term can be translated literally as "in front of the board", referring to a cutting board.

While it is not necessary to be Japanese in order to be considered an itamae, non-Japanese must prove themselves worthy of such a title.

Dave Lowry, in his book "The Connoisseur' s Guide to Sushi: Everything You Need to Know About Sushi" describes four criteria to judge a good itamae:

In the western world the itamae is often thought of with sushi (although they are commonly referred to simply as 'sushi chefs'). In Japan becoming an itamae of sushi requires years of on-the-job training and apprenticeship. Typically, after five years or so spent working with a master or teacher itamae, the apprentice is given his first important task related to making sushi: preparation of the sushi rice. The rice is prepared according to the strict instructions of the senior itamae, and each sushi restaurant has its own "secret" recipe of rice, salt and rice vinegar. Once the senior itamae is satisfied with the consistency of the sushi rice made daily by the apprentice, the apprentice may then be promoted.

This promotion puts the apprentice in a more prominent location, next to the senior itamae. This position is called "wakiita", that means "near the cutting board". The wakiita's duties expand to include daily preparation of the fresh ingredients, such as preparing blocks of fish, grating ginger, and slicing scallions. Eventually the apprentice might begin to prepare sushi for clients with take away orders. The wakiita also learns the proper ways to interact with and treat the restaurant's customers by observing the senior itamae.

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Wikipedia