Geoffrey Bruce (mountaineer)
| Geoffrey Bruce | |
|---|---|
Bruce (left) and Finch in 1922
|
|
| Born |
John Geoffrey Bruce 4 December 1896 |
| Died | 31 January 1972 (aged 75) |
| Nationality | British |
| Occupation | Military officer |
| Known for | Mount Everest expeditions |
| Spouse(s) | Marjorie Isabel Crump |
| Parent(s) | Colonel Sir Gerald Bruce |
| Military career | |
| Service/branch | British Indian Army |
| Years of service | 1914–1948 |
| Rank | Major General |
| Commands held |
17th Indian Infantry Brigade 2nd Battalion 6th Gurkha Rifles |
| Battles/wars | |
| Awards |
Companion of the Order of the Bath Distinguished Service Order Military Cross Order of the Star of Nepal |
Major General John Geoffrey Bruce CB, DSO, MC (4 December 1896 – 31 January 1972) was an officer in the British Indian Army, eventually becoming Deputy Chief of General Staff, who participated in the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition. Bruce, who had never before climbed a mountain, had been appointed as a transport officer, but chance led to him accompanying George Finch on the only summit attempt that used supplemental oxygen. Together they set a new mountaineering world record height of 8,300 metres (27,300 ft), only 520 metres (1,700 ft) below the summit of Mount Everest.
Geoffrey Bruce, born on 4 December 1896, was a son of Colonel Sir Gerald Bruce. He attended Rugby School. Bruce married Marjorie Isabel Crump in 1932 and they had two daughters. In 1922 he was described by his mountaineering colleague George Finch as "tall, of athletic build, strong, endowed with a great fund of mental energy – an invaluable asset on ventures of this kind – and cheerful in any situation".Wade Davis said Bruce was, in 1922, "one of the finest athletes in the Indian Army".
During the First World War, Bruce was second lieutenant in the Glamorgan Yeomanry serving in Egypt and Palestine.
As an officer of the British Indian Army, Bruce took part in the Third Anglo-Afghan War of 1919, and in 1921 he was awarded the Military Cross. He participated in the North-West Frontier Province operations between 1920 and 1923, and again between 1937 and 1938. Bruce was promoted to commander of the 2nd Battalion 6th Gurkha Rifles in 1937. He had a distinguished career during the Second World War, serving in Norway and France in 1940, before returning to India to command the 17th Indian Infantry Brigade at the time of its formation. From 1944 to 1946 he was Deputy Chief of General Staff of the British Indian Army, and was then General Officer Commanding Lahore District until his retirement in 1948. He was commandant of the Civil Defence Staff College from 1952 to 1956.
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