Russia leather

Russia leather is a particular form of bark-tanned cow leather. It is distinguished by a later processing step, after tanning, where birch oil is worked into the rear face of the leather. This gives a leather that is particularly hard-wearing, flexible and resistant to water. The oil impregnation also deterred insect attack.

The high quality of this leather, its usefulness for a range of purposes, and its manufacture being difficult to replicate elsewhere, led to it being a major export good from Russia in the 17th and 18th centuries. It was an important item of trade for the Muscovy Company.

In German-speaking countries, this leather was also known by the name Juchten or Juften.

Producing the leather involved three processes:

The tanning process was unexceptional amongst other vegetable tanning process using tree bark. It followed the usual steps of long soaking and cleaning in water, liming to remove hair, and then the tanning itself.

Tanning steeps the leather in a solution of tanbark for around five weeks, with twice daily agitation and weekly replacement of the 'tan', or tanning solution. A great quantity of tanbark is required, around 2,880 litres for 150 hides.

The tanbark used in Russia was the poplar willow Salix arenaria or in Siberia the more readily available bast (dark inner bark, beneath the papery bark) of the birch tree. However it was also reported that spruce bark would be equally effective.

The oiling process is what really distinguishes Russia leather from others. Birch oil is applied to the flesh side of the leather, soaking through completely and saturating the leather entirely. Care is taken that it is only applied to one side of the leather, keeping it away from the grain side to avoid discolouration and poor dyeing later.Seal oil is also reported to have been used, in addition.

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