Palace of Cortés, Cuernavaca

The Palace of Cortés (Spanish: Palacio de Cortés) in Cuernavaca, Mexico, built in 1526, is the oldest conserved colonial-era civil structure in the continental Americas. The architecture is gothic mudejar, typical of the early 16th century colonial architecture. The building began as a fortified residence for conqueror Hernán Cortés and his aristocratic second wife, Doña Juana Zúñiga. It was built in 1526, over a Tlahuica Aztec tribute collection center, which was destroyed by the Spanish during the Conquest. Cortés replaced it with a personal residence to assert authority over the newly conquered peoples. As Cortés’s residence, it reached its height in the 1530s, but the family eventually abandoned it due to on-going legal troubles. In the 18th century, colonial authorities had the structure renovated and used it as a barracks and jail. During the Mexican War of Independence, it held prisoners such as José María Morelos y Pavón. After the war, it became the seat of government for the state of Morelos until the late 20th century, when the state government moved out and the structure was renovated and converted into the current Museo Regional Cuauhnahuac, or regional museum, with exhibits on the history of Morelos.

Originally, the site of this palace was a tribute gathering place, first for Tlahuica rulers, then for the Aztecs after they conquered what is now Morelos in the 15th century. After the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire, Cortes had the pre-Hispanic building destroyed and a palace for himself built in its place in 1526. Cortés chose Cuernavaca as one of his residences because of the fertility of the lands surrounding it. The initial structure was built as a fortress, although it was much smaller than what currently stands. What is now the central part of the structure, marked by the use of arches on the balconies, corresponds to the original Cortés structure. This structure was built with thick walls, merlons and other defensive elements, as well as a well-supplied armory with arquebusiers, muskets, cannons and other weapons of the era. However, most of the building was designed as a residence with its own mill, stables, gardens, ovens and more. The main body of the palace was built with two galleries on the west side containing four arches in each of its two levels, and living quarters were built on the north and south sides. The watchtower was added when Cortés was named the Captain General and Governor of New Spain . As the conqueror of Mexico and the Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca, the residence was richly decorated. Its walls were covered with twenty one tapestries, and its chapel contained crosses and other religious paraphernalia in gold and silver. Cortés’ need for protection against the newly conquered peoples was real. During one of his visits to the palace, Cortés was attacked by Tlahuica warriors who wanted to kill him. The place where this occurred is called the Callejón del Diablo or Devil’s Alley. The attack is documented, but the legend also states that Cortés reached safety by jumping a five meter wide crevice on his horse named Rucio. This portion is not supported by the records.

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