Action Directe (climb)

Action Directe
The route follows five bolts which are visible on the photo (quickdraws are clipped to the fourth and fifth bolt) and ends with the belay anchor (not visible). The next bolted route to the right, Feiste Fäuste, follows the overhanging crack and is much easier (grade IX).
Location	Frankenjura, Germany
Coordinates	49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E / 49.63444; 11.60250Coordinates: 49°38′04″N 11°36′09″E / 49.63444°N 11.60250°E / 49.63444; 11.60250
Climbing Area	Krottenseer Forst (crag Waldkopf)
Route Type	Sport Climb
Rating	9a (French) or XI (UIAA)
First free ascent	Wolfgang Güllich, 1991.

Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.

While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI. It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific strength needed for this route.

Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's with a start from the neighboring line to the right. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket. Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.

The repeat ascents were by:

INTERVIEWS