Justacorps

A justacorps or justaucorps is a long, knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century, and throughout the 18th century. The garment is of French origin, and was introduced in England as a component of a three-piece ensemble, also consisting of breeches and a long vest or waistcoat. This ensemble served as the prototype of the modern-day three-piece suit. The fabric selection and styling of the justacorps varied throughout time periods, as fashions frequently altered.

In 1666, Charles II of England declared to reset men’s fashion by introducing a new garment, referred to as a vest, or a waistcoat. The vest was knee-length, worn in conjunction with breeches and an overcoat of equal length. The coat became known as the justacorps, or cassock due to its similarity to the vestments worn by priests, and this outfit is thought to be the prototype of the modern day men's three-piece suit.

Similar coats known as Achkans and Sherwanis had been worn in Persia, the Ottoman Empire, and India since the late Middle Ages, and could be either sleeved or sleeveless. These were often worn by wealthy travellers who visited the East during the early 1600s, and some may have been brought back to England. Another garment that came into fashion in Poland and Hungary at the same time was the Zupan or dolman with its distinctive turn-back cuffs and decorative gold braid. The Zupan started out as a long and heavy winter gown before becoming shorter and more fitted during the 16th century. These Eastern European and Islamic long coats probably influenced the design of the Justacorps later favored by Louis XIV of France and King Charles due to their exotic appearance, comfort and practicality.

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