Tony Streather

Lieutenant Colonel (Retired) Harry Reginald Anthony "Tony" Streather OBE (born 24 March 1926) is a former British army officer who served in the Gloucestershire Regiment, and mountaineer who first-ascended Tirich Mir and Kangchenjunga.

Streather was originally commissioned into the Indian Army where he saw service towards the end of the Second World War. He transferred to the Gloucestershire Regiment in 1947 and was immediately awarded his 'war rank' of Lieutenant. He promoted to Captain in 1953 and to Lieutenant Colonel in 1967. In the 1965 New Year Honours he was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire and in the 1977 New Year Honours he was promoted to Officer of the Order of the British Empire.

As a captain posted to the Chitral region of Pakistan, Streather was the official government representative in a Norwegian expedition that made the first ascent in 1951 of Tirich Mir (7,710 m), the highest mountain of the Hindu Kush. He was initially appointed transport officer, but became a member of the successful summiting team. On his return to Britain he was invited to join the Alpine Club (he later became its president), and was selected for trials for the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition. He was rejected for the latter because of a lack of technical experience, but nearly at the same time was invited to join the 1953 American Karakoram Expedition, which attempted a far more technical route up K2, the second highest mountain in the world. Though again originally in charge of logistics, he climbed as high as anyone else and was involved in the dramatic events at 7,800 m.

...
Wikipedia