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Speed climbing


Speed climbing is climbing in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles. Competition speed climbing, which takes place on an artificial standardized climbing wall, is the main form of speed climbing, however, there are other variations of speed climbing which take place out doors. In pure speed climbing, time is everything but it is also common to record speed ascents while observing a particular climbing style or ethic. For example, there are many speed records in which the climb was done according to free climbing ethics. In popular culture speed climbing may be best known for a viral video featuring Dan Osman climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach route (5.7, 400+ feet) in 4 min 25 sec. This clip was originally featured in the movie Masters of Stone IV.

Competition speed climbing as governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing takes place on 15m artificial walls. Competitors climb a slightly overhanging IFSC certified wall, with belaying from the top. Since 2007 the IFSC has created a standard wall for the world record. The holds and order are always identical, and the difficulty rating is around F6b, which is a level most recreational climbers could complete.

The climbing time is determined by mechanical-electric timing (the competitor strikes a switch at the top of the route) but manual timing is also possible. When mechanical-electric timing is used, the climbing time shall be measured with an accuracy of 0.01 second. As of 04/28/17, Iranian climber Reza Alipourshenazandifar holds the men's 15 meter speed world record; 5.48 seconds. Iuliia Kaplina from Russia holds the women's 15-meter speed record at 7.46 seconds.

Speed climbing World Champions 2016 are Marcin Dzieński from Poland (5.83 seconds) and Anna Tsyganova from Russia (7.52 seconds). IFSC Climbing World Championships took place in Paris, France.

Speed World Record Requirement

Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger. When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular free climbing, simul climbing, aiding, and at times sections of roped soloing. Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of rope soloing, aiding, and free soloing. Strictly speaking this type of speed climbing is not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing. However the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style.


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