Margaret Howell

Margaret Howell (born 5 September 1946, Tadworth, Surrey, England) is a contemporary British clothing designer who has worked successfully in both men’s and women’s wear for nearly four decades. Keynote designs are her take on the shirt, gymslip, lace-up shoe, duffle coat and trench coat. With their androgynous quality, and sympathetically shot by photographers such as Bruce Weber, Koto Bolofo, and Alasdair McLellan, her clothes have been described as ‘marrying traditional styles with modern appeal... [so] all her work... has a stylish timelessness.’ She herself says, “My style could be described as understated quality, updated modern classics.” “I am often inspired by the method by which something is made... Good design has to work. Clothes have to work for people just as a chair has to...”

“I had always made my own clothes, so the enjoyment of choosing the fabric and adapting the pattern to what I wanted was my training. [But] The 4 Year Dip Ad course [in Fine Art at Goldsmith’s College, London] was an invaluable training in colour, proportion and design.” Graduating in 1969, Howell made accessories while job-hunting. In 1970 her hand-made beads were taken up by Vogue and, spotted in the window of Browns, led to a commission by costume designer Beatrice Dawson for a beaded vest for Elizabeth Taylor, then shooting ‘Zee and Co’ in London.

In 1972 Howell began to design, make and sell shirts from a flat in Blackheath, south-east London, and was soon encouraged by orders from Joseph in London as well as US retailers, including Tommy Perse, Alan Bilzerian and Howard Partman, “... who were looking for more classic, interesting English clothes.” With Joseph’s generous support a Margaret Howell franchise shop opened on South Molton Street, London in 1976. With husband Paul Renshaw as business partner Howell opened her first independent shop in St Christopher's Place, London in 1980.

Recognition followed and the label grew. A profile in French Elle in 1977 noted: “In her precise and meticulous working methods, Margaret Howell is more a craftsman than an industrialist.” Jack Nicholson was a fan and insisted on wearing his own Margaret Howell corduroy jacket for his role in 1980’s The Shining, prompting an order for 12 duplicates from Stanley Kubrick. 1982 saw Grace Coddington choose a Howell piece as Dress of the Year. A New York City shop opened in Manhattan in 1982 and the first Margaret Howell standalone shop opened in Aoyama, Tokyo in 1983. However, this rapid expansion caused both business and personal difficulties. The couple divorced in 1987 and Renshaw left the company. It was restructured in 1990 with the help of Sam Sugure, responsible for Japanese licensing, and Richard Craig, who remains as Managing Director.

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