La Huasteca Climbing Area
Parque La Huasteca is a municipal park in Monterrey, Mexico and also the first established climbing area, only 20 minutes from the city center. With nearly 300 bolted routes with grades from 5.4 to 5.14, it is the favorite place for weekend climbers. There are no entrance fees for most of the climbing areas
Cazuelas: Near the entrance, to the left, near an iron door. Harder moderate climbs.
Pico Lico: Past Cazuelas, a triangular rock. Easy climbs.
Los Perros: On the right, just past the entrance. Very easy climbs.
Lulu: Past Los Perros, to the left and below. Easy climbs.
Pico Independencia: The salient feature of the park on the right of the road, has a via ferrata to the top. Moderate and hard sport, trad, mixed climbs.
Las Hienas: To the right of Pico Independencia. Difficult climbs.
Zona Extrema: A mile into the canyon, on the left. Easy to harder moderate climbs.
Los Médicos: Past the small village of Nogales. Most popular sport and multi-pitch walls.
Casa del Doctor: Below and to the right of a house built into the stone.
La Bestia Cueva: A truly ginormous cave on the hillside at the rear of the canyon.
Virgincita: The smaller cave to the right of Cueva de Virgin on Independencia.
In 1954 Federico Ramírez García, also known as "Lico", climbed the first summit of La Huasteca. Today that summit is known as "Pico Lico" in his honor. Pico Lico is nearly 70 meters high.
In 1957 the most famous peak in La Huasteca was conquered by a climbing club called Pirineos, hence the autonomous name of the peaks "Los Pirineos".
In 1960 the West Face was first climbed: Alberto Perez from Pirineos climbed almost all the route except the last 60 meters, then a couple of friends threw him a rope from above to complete the climb. The first person to climb the West Face without any assistance was Juan de Dios De Leon Camero. Others followed, conquering more summits and bolting some routes.
It the late 1980s and 1990s, sport climbing began with Francisco Medina, Julia Compean, and Andres Medina, two brothers and students of the Juan de Dios climbing school. They bolted and climbed the hardest routes in La Huasteca, Veneno and El Sueño que de Niño, both 5.13c.
In the 2000s climbing became more popular, when the Universidad de Monterrey and the ITESM, two well-recognized universities, started giving climbing courses at La Huasteca.
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