Kasuri

Kasuri (絣^?) is a Japanese word for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric. It is an ikat (resist-dyeing) technique. The patterns are characterized by a blurred or brushed appearance. The warp and weft threads are resist-dyed in specific patterns. Prior to dyeing, sections of the warp and weft yarns are tightly wrapped with thread to protect them from the dye. When woven together, the undyed areas interlace to form patterns . Many variations are possible. Kasuri patterns may be applied to the warp or to the weft; or to both the warp and the weft.There are many techniques used to create kasuri. The cloth is classified with different names depending on the method used.

Ikat techniques were practiced in the Ryukyu Kingdom (modern-day Okinawa) in the 12th or 13th century, and kasuri textiles were produced for export in the 14th century. After the invasion of the Ryukyu Kingdom in 1609, kasuri techniques entered southern Japan and had moved northwards to the Nara area of Honshu Island by 1750. A general increase in cotton production allowed farmers to weave and dye cotton textiles for their own use and for sale. As kasuri production continued to spread throughout the country, some rural villages became "manufacturing centers". Individual families tied the skeins and wove the cloth, but the dyeing was usually done in community maintained dyeworks. By 1850, kasuri was being produced in several areas, including the Kurume area of Kyushu Island, the Iyo area of Shikoku Island and Bingo and San-in on Honshu Island. Increases in production continued until the 1930s, when the national government diverted resources due to military expansion. By the last quarter of the 20th century, few people could afford the time necessary to dye and hand weave their own cloth. However, contemporary artisans continue to produce highly prized textiles using traditional methods.

A. Warp and/or weft: dyed

B. Color of dye

C. Technique

D. By design

E. By place of production

Due to regional variations, some types of kasuri are classified by place of production. Examples include:

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