Henry Barber (rock climber)

Henry Barber

Henry Barber in Australia in 2007
Personal information
Nickname	"Hot Henry"
Nationality	American
Born	1953 (age 64–65) Boston, Massachusetts
Climbing career
Type of climber	first ascenscionist and free soloist
Updated on 25 February 2016.

Henry Barber (born 1953 in Boston, Massachusetts) is a leading American rock climber and ice climber in the 1970s. Known by the nickname "Hot Henry", Barber was an advocate of clean climbing, a prolific first ascenscionist and free soloist. He was one of the first American rock climbers to travel widely to climb in different countries. Barber was one of the first "professional" American rock climbers, supporting himself as a sales representative for outdoor equipment companies including Chouinard Equipment and Patagonia, and by giving lectures and slide shows. He was an integral member of the "Front Four" quartet of the 1970s: "Hot Henry", John Stannard, Steve Wunsch, and John Bragg.

At age 17, Barber started climbing with the Boston chapter of the Appalachian Mountain Club. Although initially not athletically gifted, he became obsessed with the sport, and persevered, climbing as much as possible. By his own account, Henry climbed approximately 270 days in 1972, and 325 in 1973.

In 1973, Henry did the second ascent of Foops, a 5.11 climbing route in the Gunks; this was five years after John Stannard had done the pioneering first ascent. In rock climbing, especially at popular crags like the Gunks, a second ascent is normally done soon after the first, usually in a matter of days or weeks.

Barber was known for climbing in trademark white golfer's cap and white painter's pants, as well as his abrasive and arrogant demeanor. He was one of the few climbers of his era to actively seek and use media attention. His repertoire of moves, creativity, and problem-solving abilities, and his tremendous self-confidence and mental control, set him apart from his contemporaries.

Henry Barber was an early advocate of clean climbing, climbing with only nuts for protection. One of Barber's specialties was doing the first free ascent of established aid climbs.