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Ankarana Reserve

Ankarana Special Reserve
IUCN category IV (habitat/species management area)
Map showing the location of Ankarana Special Reserve
Map showing the location of Ankarana Special Reserve
Location of Ankarana Reserve
Location Northern Madagascar
Nearest city Antsiranana (Diego Suarez)
Coordinates 13°4′22″S 48°54′53″E / 13.07278°S 48.91472°E / -13.07278; 48.91472Coordinates: 13°4′22″S 48°54′53″E / 13.07278°S 48.91472°E / -13.07278; 48.91472
Area 182 km2 (70 sq mi)
Established 1956
Visitors approx. 6000 (in 2005)
Governing body [Madagascar National Parks http://www.parcs-madagascar.com/fiche-aire-protegee_en.php?Ap=6]

Ankarana Special Reserve in northern Madagascar was created in 1956. It is a small, partially vegetated plateau composed of 150-million-year-old middle Jurassic limestone. With an average annual rainfall of about 2,000 millimetres (79 in), the underlying rocks are susceptible to erosion, thereby producing caves and underground rivers—a karst topography. The rugged relief and the dense vegetation have helped protect the region from human intrusion.

The plateau slopes gently to the east, but on the west it ends abrubtly in the "Wall of Ankarana", a sheer cliff that extends 25 kilometres (16 mi) north to south, and rises as high as 280 metres (920 ft). To the south, the limestone mass breaks up into separate spires known as tower karst. In the center of the plateau, seismic activity and eons of rainfall have dissolved the limestone away in deep gorges, and sometimes redeposited it in ribbons of flowstone. In places where the calcific upper layers have been completely eroded, the harder base rock has been etched into channels and ridges known as tsingy.

The largest sinkhole in the Ankarana karst region, Mangily sinkhole, measures up to 700 meters across and 140 meters deep with a volume of 25 million cubic meters. The area is sacred to the Antankarana people, who have historically taken refuge from encroaching enemy armies in its caves and other natural rock shelters.

Beginning in the 1960s, expatriate Frenchman Jean Duflos (who married locally and changed his name to Jean Radofilao) did a huge amount of exploration of the cave systems and subterranean rivers of the Massif, much of it on his own or with visiting speleologists. A total of about 100 kilometres (62 mi) of cave passages within the massif have been mapped. One of the most accessible caves, La Grotte d'Andrafiabe, alone comprises at least 8.035 kilometres (4.993 mi) of horizonatal passages. Indeed the Massif contains the longest cave systems in Madagascar, and probably in the whole of Africa.

Something disturbed the water deep inside the cave – it was the sort of noise a large animal would make sliding into a river. After so many days alone my mind ran riot. I tried to counter fear with logic. If there were crocodiles in my bathroom I would surely have encountered them by now, for I had swum the entire length of the little subterranean river several times. Perhaps it was mud sliding into the water. Standing up to leave, I noticed a gentle grunting noise and turned towards it Silhouetted in the entrance, was the unmistakable shape of a Crowned Lemur. She paused, with her long tail held over her body like a furry question mark. Looking away, she grunted softly as if speaking to a friend outside. Then, reassured, the rest of her troop arrived, looked in my direction and, to my amazement, continued on their way down, descending the same familiar climb I had used. They were quite unruffled by my presence. For generations, lemurs must have been coming here: tiny feet and hands had polished the rocks smooth down to the water. The troop disappeared through a gap in the boulders to a place where it was easy to drink. Five minutes later, they shot out of the cave with muzzles wet and stomachs bulging. This was a dangerous place for them with innumerable dark corners which could hide a Fosa – the lemurs' most dangerous predator. Yet they had to come here. Water was scarce and this one waterhole had to be shared by all the troops living in this isolated section of the forest.


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