1936 Eiger north face climbing disaster

The 1936 Eiger north face disaster resulted in the death of five climbers during the 1936 climbing season on the north face of the Eiger.

After a deadly and unsuccessful German attempt in 1935, ten climbers from Austria and Germany traveled to the still-unclimbed Eiger in 1936, but, before serious summit attempts could get underway, one climber was killed during a training climb. The weather was so bad that after waiting for a change and seeing none on the way, several climbers gave up. Only four remained: two Bavarians, Andreas Hinterstoisser and Toni Kurz, the youngest of the party, and two Austrians, Willy Angerer and Edi Rainer.

The weather improved and they made preliminary explorations of the lowest part of the face. Hinterstoisser fell 37 metres (121 ft) but was not injured. A few days later the four men began ascending the north face. They climbed quickly, but on the second day, the weather changed; clouds came down and allowed observers on the ground only intermittent visibility to the climbers on the face. On the second day the party was bombarded by rockfall, a notorious problem on the north face route. Angerer was hit just below the shoulder blade and injured, though it is said that he tried to continue climbing. He certainly did not call for a retreat at the time.

They did not resume climbing until the following day, when, during a break in the clouds, the party was observed descending. Later, it would be learned that the group had no choice but to retreat, since Angerer had suffered more serious injuries from the falling rock than at first thought. The party became stuck on the face when they could not recross the very technical and difficult Hinterstoisser Traverse, from which they had pulled the rope during their ascent. Exhausted on their third day of climbing, with two days of bad weather, it is said that Hinterstoisser still tried for hours to cross the traverse, but it was impossible in the poor conditions. Hinterstoisser had used a technique called a "tension traverse", where a rope is fixed and kept taut, allowing the lead climber to "lean" on it for balance. This technique was not possible descending though. The bad weather would have also meant wet and / or icy rock compared to dry conditions on the ascent.

The group decided to abseil down the vertical face (the great rock barrier) to the base of the mountain. Contact was made with a railway guard at the Eigerwand railway station halfway down the descent. During their exchange the climbers amazingly said that everything was all right (perhaps out of pride and knowledge that they were very close to safety). However, as Hinterstoisser set up the last abseil of the descent, an avalanche came down the mountain, taking Hinterstoisser, who had unclipped from the group, with it. He was found at the bottom of the mountain days later. Willy Angerer fell and was killed by the impact of his body against the rock face, and Edi Rainer quickly asphyxiated from the weight of the rope around his diaphragm. Only Kurz survived the avalanche, hanging on the rope with his dead comrades.

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Wikipedia