Japanese fashion as social resistance

Following the old Japanese adage of “the nail that sticks up gets hammered down” (でるくぎはうたれる derukugihautareru), the Lolita (ロリータ roriita) and Ganguro (ガングロ) fashions have been met with much disdain as marginal subgroups of Japanese culture. Clothing is one of the easiest ways to differentiate oneself in Japanese society, and even though Ganguro is much more overt and shocking in this expression and Lolita has somewhat more subtle methods, both harken to Western ideals of attractiveness, with Ganguro girls evoking the California girl or the black hip-hop aesthetic and Lolita calling upon Rococo, the Victorian era, and Edwardian era in Western Europe. This is directly in conflict with nationalism and the homogenous image in Japan. Looked at more closely, this sort of dress could bring shame upon the family because there is too much attention being drawn to the child, and can conflict with ideas of conduct, social roles, and rebellion within Japanese filial piety (おやこうこう oyakoukou) and Confucianism, both of which are major parts of the structure of Japanese society.

There has been some speculation that these fashions are expressions of psychological discontent, a way of finding groups that are accepting emotional outlets, of receiving attention, as well of expressing resentment in the face of neglect at home from busy working parents or isolation, bullying, and stress at school.

Ganguro style is characterized by dyed hair, tanned skin, and a heavy use of makeup. Far from traditional Asian styles, it emphasizes standards of beauty that seem more reminiscent of California than Japan. Hair colors can range from blond and orange to a bleached white. Although makeup trends have changed throughout the years, most Ganguro styles incorporate a non-conventional use of white concealer with a skin-tan that is achieved through either cosmetic products or extensive tanning. Different sub-groups of Ganguro can often be distinguished by their eye makeup with white makeup appearing above the eyes in Ganguro and below the eyes in a later branch referred to as Yamanba.

Individual fashion focuses on bright colors and an abundance of accessories. Ganguro girls can be seen sporting tie-dye, miniskirts, bulky jewelry, and platform shoes. Yamanba is often associated with Hawaiian prints and facial stickers, although these particular accessories have fallen out of style recently.

Ganguro first developed in the 90’s, drawing on both global stimuli and Japanese cultural climate. Although the trend is a fusion of many different factors, R&B artist Namie Amuro and British model Naomi Campbell are seen as its primary influences (Joseph & Holden). Amuro often wore miniskirts and platform boots, which became a staple in Ganguro style. Both of these women helped to popularize dark skin in Japan, which ran contrary to previous cultural ideals. Although these traits are valued within the Ganguro sub-culture, they are often still ridiculed and rejected within mainstream society.

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Wikipedia