Cieszyn folk costume

Cieszyn folk costume, also known as Valachian, is a Silesian folk costume, which used to be worn within majority of the area of Cieszyn Silesia, but mostly by Cieszyn Vlachs. Taking into consideration ornamentation, cutting and materials, it can be observed that it is a replica of historical costumes of the Renaissance. The male folk costume was worn only to the late 19th century, whereas the female folk costume was more popular and spread in the vicinity of the Wisła, Istebna and Koniaków. Previously in this area the costumes of Silesian Gorals prevailed. Female folk costumes in Cieszyn were subjected to many changes, especially in respect to ornamentations and better quality of materials. Due to its richness and elegance the costume quickly became a target of artists and specialists in folk culture.

A significant change concerning sets of garments, cutting and materials can be observed in the second half of the 19th century. Moreover, the process of modernization intensified after the first World War. Since that time Cieszyn folk costumes have never come to their traditional form again. Men constituted the social group which was most prone to change and they first ceased to wear traditional costumes. It may be due to the fact that majority of men migrated to industrial cities for economic reasons. A clash of different cultures resulted in greater standardization. Tastes have changed and new materials were introduced to modify traditional cuttings. Kabotek is the conspicuous example of this process. The cutting of this short waist shift was simplified. What is more, handmade ornaments were replaced by machine embroidery and laces. Leather and silver elements in Cieszynian belt were frequently replaced by rubber and beads.

The female folk costume featured the lush and elegance, due to its essential element, silver jewellery. In the 18th and 19th century, women in Cieszyn wore splendorous clothes which consisted of a lace cap, covered with headgear, a short shirt (kabotek), redbreas, padded corset (żywotek), sewn at the waist, apron, white stockings and black shoes. It was not until a century later that the jewellery previously worn by the nobility and the bourgeoisie was adapted as the traditional costume by the population of small towns and villages.

Similarly to Cieszynian folk costume, jewellery is a replica of ornaments from times of the Renaissance and the Reformation. Because of its being a trade rout and having fertile soil, Cieszyn was rather a rich city. Fashion was being modified in accordance to European markets thanks to trips of the last descendants of the Piast dynasty in Cieszyn on the turn of the 16th and 17th century. Cieszyn was the biggest centre of jewellery trade in the region. Ornaments were made of silver, gold, and some alloys. Metalwork techniques were filigree and casting. Male costumes were decorated only with metal buttons (knefle). A set of jewellery of a wealthy woman consisted of a collar stud, orpant, hoczki and belt.

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